1st Solo Road Trip NY to FL (National Parks tour)

NY-PA-VA-NC-SC-GA-FL

Gettysburg/Fredericksburg/St. Augustine 

October 13-16th 2023

Ever since my trip to South Dakota and realizing that I could easily sleep in my car, I had wanted to take my own solo road trip. I know that my tastes in stopping at every place and in an attempt to hit up as many National Park Units that I can, is not to everyone's taste, so solo is perfect. It was a little scary, but I was determined, plus I had some very exciting dates coming up in both Florida and Nashville. 

 DAY 1:

So up very early one morning, I was off. 

My first stop was Gettysburg National Military Park, and I made it in great time arriving around 9:30am. I first stopped at the visitor center where I mainly obtained information, got my unigrid, my passport stamp and a magnet. I have an annual National Parks pass, (Although the park is free) except the museum, film and cyclorama is not covered with the National Park pass and cost $20-. There are also tours that you can do with an additional cost.  I choose to go it alone. I had been here before at least 2 times (once when the museum was free years ago) and I was fine with just going about the country roads. Although I am super interested in the Civil War and its history. I am just not thrilled about looking at open fields reading signs that tell me what had happened there. 

I saw what I could within the visitor center and headed out in search of something interesting.

First interesting stop was saying hello to this guy. Well Hello Abe! I will not be giving the history of the Civil War here, but I will tell you that the Battle that took place here in Gettysburg is considered the turning point in the war. It was here where the Union was a victor preventing General Lee invasion of the North. The win also improved Union morale, renewing commitment to the cause and where President Abe Lincoln gave his infamous address. "The Gettysburg Address."

But it wasn't all roses and rainbows, Gettysburg is also the largest and bloodies battle of the Civil War. Over 50,000 deaths took place between July 1-July 3 1863.  Leaders of the Confederate where killed or injured as well. North or South, there were lives lost. Its hard to celebrate a win, with so much loss.

There are many monuments within Gettysburg. I stopped and walked a few fields, before I decided to head into town.

The Wade house intrigued me. (Not part of the National Park) Here is the home where Jenni Wade; sister of the home owner, and the only civilian killed during the Gettysburg Battle. 

Jenni was making bread when a stray bullet killed her. How awful for her and her family. Imagine making bread as a battle was going on. This is why I love history, first its really interesting, but secondly theses are real people. People who could have been anyone of us. What would life have been like? How would I have lived through some of our historical times? Could I have handled it? How would I have behaved? How grateful I am for living today and not 150 years ago. 

Poor Jenni.

Bullet holes through the door. 

I actually do not know if this was the very house that Jenni was in, but it prompted me to learn about the girl who was killed during the battle. Also within the house was a store. I encountered an author Don Allison. Mr. Allison writes about his experiences with the Ghosts of Gettysburg. I was able to speak with him about some of his encounters. His interest in the paranormal began when he encountered a ghost in his home back in Ohio. I spoke with him for a while and also told him of my own interest. He invited me to attend a paranormal event that evening. Although this was exciting, I declined informing him that as much as I wanted to see a ghost, I didn't want to see a ghost even more.

Truth be told, I was camping in the woods alone tonight, and I was already afraid of doing that, I didn't need to add the fear of a ghost getting me too. I did buy one of his books, which he signed, and I headed on my way. I drove through Gettysburg, but didn't get many pictures and finding parking was insane. So I just looked and moved on. 

I had plans anyway. I wanted to hit my next National Park, and it's not to far away. The retirement home of President Dwight D Eisenhower. 

Had to get the picture of the sign. 

President Eisenhower (Ike) was our 34th President. He was commander in chief from 1953 to 1961.

Ike was born in Texas and raised in Kansas by very religious parents. He attended West Point and married his wife Mamie. Mamie is important to this National Park, because she was the one who pushed to purchase their very first home here. The couple never had purchased their own home in their 35 years of marriage. They had moved 28 times and this was to be their forever home. 

Quick facts about IKE! (This is what I remember about the tour). Once Ike graduated (1915) from Westpoint he went into the Military and during WWI And WW II he quickly rose in rank to a 5 star General of the Army. His first station was to command Camp Colt, located here in Gettysburg. Initially, Ike was disappointed in the charge. He had hoped to be sent overseas. However, he ultimately fell in love with the area eventually purchasing this farm for his retirement. Ike eventually went over seas, and was appointed assistant to General Douglas MacArthur in the Philippines during WWII.

I was able to get on with this tour of the house. I'm  just going to say it, tours are great because you get a ton of information, its personalized and I love the passion most of these rangers have for the subject. But there are also those tours where you have that one idiot who asks stupid questions, monopolizes the the guide and makes the whole experience unbearable. Well, this was one of the latter. 

Anyway....I will consider myself blessed to have the experience. So more about Ike. Long before purchasing this home (1950), WWII offered more promotions for Ike, he proved to be both a military officer and solve political problems internationally. This combination provided more military growth and opportunity, In 1943 he was appointed Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Forces, making him in charge of the invasion of France. Some of us may have heard the term D-Day. Well it was Ike who can take the credit. D-Day was the first day of the Normandy Beach Invasion, June 6, 1944. 

(The grand parlor and a picture of Mamie)

The Invasion called Operation Overlord was allied with the British and Canadian troops. Five separate military forces took to Normandy to fight the Germans liberating Northern France. (that is the quick and simple version that my over 50 year old brain can muster.). This success helped to push back the Germans and they surrendered on May 4th 1945. Ike was awarded his 5 star general status at this time. 

(There he is)

A word from our sponsor....the house furnishings and decor are original to the house, these are not replicas. This was the late 50's-60's style. 

Back to Ike. After WWII, Ike became Commander of The NATO forces in Europe. In 1952 Ike decided to run for President and he WON! Ike is ON FIRE BABY!

(The dining room- and check out the hall wallpaper. I blew up the picture to give you a good look)

Just a little patriotic, maybe.

So, Ike is considered an accomplished President. Some highlights included;

*his push to end Communism and stop the Soviet Union, 

*Establishment of the interstate highway system as we know today

*Support for integration and proposal of the Civil Rights Acts of 1957 and 1960

*Aided in negotiation to end the Korean War

(I am sure there are more, but these were the highlights on the website for Kids)

The main bedroom.

All of the things neatly on the bedside table.

I am not sure whose children these are in the picture, but Ike and Mamie did have two sons. Their first child Doud "Icky" died at the age of three to scarlet fever. Their second child John, was, before his own death in 2005, the oldest living Presidential child. Not much is known about how the couple delt with Icky's death as they did not speak of it. 

Ike died at the age of 78 in 1969. Mamie remained in this home after his death until her own health declined.

Well that was very interesting, and I learned some new things about a president I knew very little about. I just read that Ike is among the top 10 best Presidents our country has had. 

On to the next adventure, and it had been a long day. I am off going south to another very different type of National Park. 



 Prince William Forest Park. I had reservations at the campsite for the evening, and I was able to get to the Visitor Center just before closing. 

This recreational park was introduced by President Franklin D Roosevelt as part of the New Deal to combat the Great Depression. The goal was to provide recreational activities for the low income families. The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC)  and Works Progress Administration (WPA) offered work experience opportunities through construction of roadways, cabins and recreational spaces for this use. 

During WWII the park was used by the OSS as a training camp for spies. 

This Park is the largest  protected natural area within the Washington DC area. It covers over 13,000 acres. It sure is pretty.

I made my way to my camp site. No electric and no service, but there are bathrooms and showers. It is a beautiful place to camp. My very first camping alone. It didn't take long to set myself up. 

Then I had to find something to do with myself. In hindsight, I guess I should have done some hiking or more exploring, but at the time, I just relaxed. With no cell service, I was suddenly out of my element. I really did not know how much I depend on technology. Thank Goodness I had bought that book. 

I read nearly the whole thing. It wasn't that scary and I am glad, because I do not want no ghosts tonight. I also did some journaling. Just like I'm 8 years old I insisted that I get the paper doll of Abe when I was in Gettysburg. I did finally get a break through call and updated the hubs on my location. I also overheard some bikers talk about bears. I was a little freaked about that as my campsite was the closest to the camp dumpster. 

 Day soon turned to night, and I got myself ready for bed. Snug as a bug in a rug as they say. It didn't take me long to fall asleep, but I woke up sometime in the middle of the night to what I initially thought were kids yelling. I thought whose damn kids are up at this hour making noise, but I soon figured it out. It was coyotes. Good thing I learned about those guys when I was camping in South Dakota or I never would have gotten back to sleep. BTW, no bears or ghosts bothered me.

DAY 2:

I was up early having had a great nights sleep. Something about sleeping in the outdoors is so soothing. As much as I loved the comfort of my RV and the safety of my car, as long as I have a good mattress I will always choose my tent as my nights landing pad. Tonight however will be what they call STELTH camping, but until then, I have a full day ahead of me. Showered and refreshed I headed out of the peaceful park and right into the DC traffic of I-95. Luckily it was still pretty early and the traffic was not horrible. 

My first stop, Fredericksburg.

I am visiting the Fredericksburg &Spotsylvania National Military Park this morning. 

 

First stop, the visitor center. I was clueless about what had happened here when I walked into this place, and I quickly learned that there was a whole lot to learn. I am realizing that the battles of the Civil war each have their own personal history. Oh and Fredericksburg is simply darling. I could so live in this town. Anyway, I first watched a film. The Battle of Fredericksburg......

Here is my summary of the Fredericksburg battle. 

Union Side:

  It was 1862 the 2nd year of the civil war. The union is loosing badly. President Lincoln is not happy, and he dismissed General McCealan after foolishly retreating after the successful win in Antiem.  He gives charge to inexperienced Ambrose Burnside. Burnside is pressured to attack and take Fredericksburg. This would put the Union in a good position as there was railroad access for resupplies. However the troops cannot cross the Rappahannock River. Burnside had requested pontoon bridges, but there had been a delay and they had not arrived. Burnside had to decide; Do they risk crossing by wading through the river or wait? He waits. Perhaps a terrible decision for Burnside, before the wait,  Fredericksburg is defenseless. 

Confederate Side:

During the wait, Robert E Lee is notified and shocked. He knew he couldn't stop the Union from taking the city. However, the wait time offers confederates an opportunity to dig in and move into position across the river. Lee also has time to arrive with his troops. 

Union Side: 

 The pontoon bridges finally arrive, but they have missed their opportunity. Burnside has a plan. Cross the river and attack. No one liked this plan. (Burnsides 2nd mistake) Burnside doesn't care and is reported to have said you are to take orders. The Union begins to built the bridges and prepare to attack.

Confederate Side:

 "Yankees are trying to cross!" Lee is  alerted to the Unions progress towards the bridge building and knows they cannot cross. The bridge builders are attacked. The union troops in an attempt to divert at the crossing attack at Stafford Heights. Cannons and fires break out in the attack within Fredericksburg, residence flee. Construction on the bridges continues. Union  troops marches into Fredericksburg as Lee watches them cross. They are coming in. 

Union Side: 

As the Union troops enter into Fredericksburg, they began to pillage, destroy and vandalize homes, taking what they wanted and burning the rest. This was considered a very shameful act of the Union military.

Meanwhile, General George Meade and his troops head to Prospect Hill. They advance but fail to realize that they are outnumbered 10:1. Meade is stalled as confederate attack and troops scatter to the forest. These men come up on Confederate troops eating lunch and for a few short moments have an opportunity to break enemy lines. It was a miracle. However the Confederates regroup sending Meade's men to retreat.

Other divisions take steps towards Marie Heights. The heights are open fields, which prevent protection. The troops still advance. Troops are killed but they continue to advance thinking the attack is coming from above as cannons had been fired down hill. They advance to a stone wall where Confederate troops surprise attack. North and South are face to face as the bullets fly. The Union was crushed. Soldiers lay dead or dying among the fields. All 15 union brigades were defeated.

Military leader General Joseph Hooker and Burnside argue. Hooker says, "STOP the attacks". 

Fredericksburg is used as a hospital to treat the wounded. The Union is defeated.

Burnside if relieved of his duties. 

Confederate side: 

Confederate troops are feeling invincible.

Fredericksburg marked the ugliness of the war.  Per the National Park website "No place more vividly reflects the wars tragic cost in all forms. A town bombarded and looted. Farms large and small ruined. Refugees by the thousands forced into the countryside." This was a battle that impacted not just the military, but he peaceful people of Fredericksburg. 

Spotsylvania is also represented with in this National Park unit, but I did not go to the Court House and visitor center. Instead I went to Chatham Manor. (also part of the National Park Unit)

 The home was built in 1771 and stands on the top of the banks of Rappahannock River. Originally owned by the Fitzhughs. They sold it 35 years later as their funds had run dry. It was purchased by Betty and Horace Lacy. 

At the time of the Civil War, Horace volunteered to serve in the Confederate Army and Betty packed up the home and left it vacant. During the battle of Fredericksburg the Confederate Army used the home as their headquarters. After the battle the home was transformed into a field hospital. 

Once the War had ended The Lacy's returned to Chatham, but as their wealth had been at the expense of slavery, and now they were no longer as wealthy, they could no longer maintain the property. 

The next eight owners of Chatham also struggled to maintain the property and eventually sold as well. In the 1920's Helen and Daniel Devore purchased the property and changed the once slave plantation to a country retreat. Much like it looks today. (view overlooking Fredericksburg)

Some of the garden views, as well as this amazing tree. I am sure it was standing here when Lee was deciding what steps to take in the battle. 

 Famous women such as Clara Barton and Mary Walker were among the nursing staff when Chatham (Then called Lacy House) was an acting hospital. Dr, John Letterman was the medical director at the time. His standards and innovations made him to be considered the Father of Modern Battlefield Medicine. 

Interesting story about Chatham. Writer Walt Whitman came searching for his wounded brother. ( He was found and alive, I was told by the Ranger)  He stayed on to assist in aiding in medical treatment and served as a nurse through out the rest of the war. 

Wow, interesting places. I can't imagine having to flee my home like that, and it is so terrible that the Union troops acted as they did. It's interesting that having grown up in the North and having always believed that the Union was the "better" men simply because what they were fighting for. They were still men. Men who were caught up in anger, defeat, fear and disillusion. I had always had this belief  that the Good Guys won, and yes our country would have been a very different place had the Union lost, but  the people of the south, were they not also fighting for what they believed? As I have taken this journey and learned more about the Civil War, I am becoming more compassionate about the people involved not just a side. 

Up next.....Hours and hours and hours of driving. Originally, I had plans to stop at Richmond and Petersburg, but I had really had enough of the Civil War at this point and wanted to get closer to Florida. So it was a long afternoon and into the night that I drove all the way to the Georgia Welcome Center, where I stopped for the night and had my first solo stealth camp. (I'm not sure if this is legal so do not come for me.) All I know is it was very different from camp the night before. I was near the trucks so it was loud, under a street lamp, so it was bright, and I really need to figure out something different for my slight incline in my back seat. Needless to say. I got some rest and was ready for my next leg of adventure. 

DAY 3: 

First on the days agenda. Breakfast at Buc-ee's. I love this place. If you haven't been to a buc-ees you have got to get to one. 

It wasn't to much longer that I was in the State of Florida and heading to my next National Park in St. Augustine, Florida; Castillo de San Marco National Monument.

Castillo de San Marco, translated is St Marks Castle. It is the oldest masonry fort in the United States. You may know that St. Augustine is identified as the oldest city in the United States, established sometime in the 1500's by the Spanish. The Fort was built in 1672 after St. Augustine was raided by the British destroying the wooden fort previously standing. 

It is a very pretty fort and you cannot beat the views.

This fort actually has a moat and a draw bridge. Its like a medieval castle. Towers too.

I walked around the outside of the fort first. It's stunning even from outside. 

I finally went in the fort. The fort does cost $, but today there was something wrong with their machine, so everyone got in for free. I had my annual Park Pass anyway, but what a gift for everyone else. 

More about the fort. Which I should have got before I entered. Unlike most of the other parks I have been to, there was not a film to watch or any quick here's what happened here explanation. 
Instead there are just rooms with artifacts and short explanations about each. Or maybe I just missed the explanation. At any rate, I was confused on who was in possession of the fort and stupidly asked a re-enactor if he was a British Soldier. He was, in character, outraged! and Shouted back...this is the Castillo de San Marco. I am NOT British. Ok, so that was fair. But to better understand my confusion, There was a time, in fact, a few times that the fort was in British hands. The fort actually was taken over a total of 5 times. So you can see where my mistake may have come from. But let me be more detailed. 

This guy, Pedro. He was the Spanish Admiral in 1672 when the fort was originally built, and Florida was held by Spain. 

So it was a Spanish fort. But then in 1763, the Treaty of Paris gave the British East Florida. The fort was then named Fort St. Mark. 20 years later, The Peace of  Paris treaty gave it back to the Spanish. 

The fort again was named Castillo De St Marcos. In 1819, the Adam-Onis Treaty was signed giving Florida to the United States. The fort was then named Fort Marion. Later it was under control of the Confederate Military.

There were other times though out the forts history that the British and the colonist took over the fort after an attack as well. So needless to say, you can understand my confusion. 

The Fort was declared a National Monument in 1924 and was turned over to the National Park Service in 1942, where as it's original name was re-stored as it is today. 

(This pictured below is a British bunk house). My confusion was confirmed. 

This was the guy I asked. He was still willing to let me take his picture. Maybe he understood my mix up. 

The fort was in Military ownership in total 251 years, and served for several purposes over that time. Initially as noted it was a Spanish fort built to protect the town of St. Augustine. When Spain had control again, the fort served as  an entry point for fugitive slaves fleeing North American slavery. These people were then free to live in Spanish Florida, which eventually lead to the first free Black Settlement- Fort Mose.

 Under the United States control it was used as a military prison. Unfortunately this was to imprison Native Americans during the Seminole War. 

There were other uses of the fort but it really is confusing. In the 1700's the town of St. Augustine was forced into the fort after Colonist attacked the town in an attempt to take over Spanish Florida. Spain came and forced the colonist to burn their own ships and flee back north. There were several other fights that took place between Spain and Britain during this time period. So it is understandable that the fort and the territory would change hands so many time. 

It is a very pretty fort, even if I was confused. I didn't ask this guy if he was a Brit. I knew he was Spanish at this point. 

Well, that was all very interesting. Basically, the fort built by the Spanish, was taken over by the British, then re-taken by the Spanish when Florida was a Spanish colony. To be again taken over by the British which was eventually taken over by the Americans after the Revolutionary War. WOW!!!!! 

So, on to the next thing. I was right down the road from yet another fort built by the Spanish. In fact this second fort was built as a result of the British attacking this fort. After the British attack in 1740, when the town had been forced into the fort. (mentioned above) they decided to build a fort to protect the river which could be used as a backdoor to St Augustine should this happen in the future. That Fort is called Fort Matanzas. We will visit there next. 
  Below is the beautiful Bridge of Lions. 

I tried to catch the lions as I drove by. I will have to come back to St. Augustine again and explore the city. There is so much more here to see, but I am on a National Park tour so to the south we go. 

Fort Matanzas National Monument

It was a little bit of a drive and it is way off in the middle of nowhere, but here I was and I was able to get on the next boat to the fort. 

I'm super excited because this National Park we get a boat ride. 

As we rode over to the fort, I got a history lesson. This Fort is really not a fort in the same sense as Castillo De San Marco, but a watch tower. Built in 1742, the fort was built to defend a southern approach of St. Augustine. 

The word Matanzas means slaughters in Spanish. 

The fort was never attacked, but just as Castillo had changed hands, this fort too changed To the British, and back to the Spanish and eventually it was declared a National Monument. 

The fort stands on what is called Rattlesnake Island. It is believed the Island was named this due to the number of rattlesnakes that were found during the 1916 restoration of the fort. 

Today it stands as a testimony to its structure and durability. In addition to the fort, the area surrounding the fort is a preserved ecosystem lush with many plants and animals. 

If there was a problem or the fort was attacked. A troop would be sent via horseback or boat up the 15 miles to St. Augustine. 

The stairs are not original or even in the design of the fort. It was added for ease. The original for had a rope ladder that could be brought up inside for protection. 

Usually 7-10 people and the officer lived in this fort, and they were rotated from Castello about every month. 

It might be stuffy in here with another 6-10 others, but what an amazing view. 

I decided not to climb up to the top. I was not wearing the right shoes for that. 

Wow! This was so much fun. I love the National Parks and this was such a great adventure to take on my own. I'll be in Florida for the next few weeks, then I take my 2nd Solo Road trip to Nashville with more National Parks on the way. I will be in Florida for a few more weeks and will finally head home the 2nd week of November. There are so many adventures in between, and I just can not wait. The Best of theme parks in Orlando, Nashville, Disney World and perhaps the most exciting is aboard the Disney Wish Cruise ship. Feeling incredibly blessed. TTFN