ROAD TRIP: NY to SD (and a toe in WY)
May 3d-May 13th 2023
I had been planning this trip and had actually reserved campsites for two years prior. This year I finally took the trip and it will be one of those trips I will remember for my lifetime. Originally I scheduled this trip in the spring of 2021. I had planned, reserved and was active in taking steps to make this trip a reality. My plan however included taking my little casita camper. The issues with my camper made me postpone the trip in 2021, and still issues in 2022. I had just about decided that this was a dream trip I would never take, when I decided with the encouragement of my friend Kelly, I could still take and I didn't need to take the casita. We decided we were going to camp in my car. I had never done something like this before, but I had seen people on you-tube who travel in theirs as well as some who actually live in their vans full time. Mixing camping, sleeping in parking lots and a few hotels, yes I could make this work. I outfitted my Jeep Cherokee, reserved a few camp sites, and took to the road. I had each stop mapped out and after getting Kelly, we were off.
DAY 1:
Our first stop was this National Historical Park. James A Garfield National Historic Site in Mentor Ohio.
We had left early enough that morning to make it to this location just as it was opening at 10am. I honestly did not know anything about our 20th President before we arrived. What I did learn is that Mr. Garfield was 1 of the 4 presidents in our US history to have been assassinated. His death was within the first 200 days of his presidency. Unfortunately his assassination is what is remembered about his term in office over what he did as a president. His presidency came shortly after the Civil War and he was best known for his attack on political corruption at the time of his election.
I was able to get my stamp for my NP book and soon we were back on the road. We must have made some great time on the road because we drove all the way across the rest of the state of Ohio and most of the state of Indiana where we went directly to Indiana Dunes National Park.
(This is only my 7th National Park as identified of the 63 National Park, I've got a long way to go to get all 63 and an even longer way to go to get the total 429 parks in the National Park system.) I got two today. 
We decided to get a picture of the dunes instead.
The Florida Tropical or known as the "pink house" was designed to bring the outdoors and indoors together, It has open roof and over hanging balconies.
The Cypress which looks much like a log cabin you might find within the woods. The highlight is the many wooden pieces within the home.
The Armco Ferro was identified for its ability to be mass produced at an affordable price, and placed on any sides without being damaged. It is made of panels of enameled steel.
(So wish I still had the pictures) at any rate it was rather fun to see these futuristic structures in real life.
Next we made our way to the Indiana Dunes State Park where we checked in to our campsite for the night (with electric), and took a short walk down to the beach area.
This is the beach house. Dunes Pavilion. Talk about impressive. We are here in the off season, so there wasn't much going on, but the place still seems to be populated. Events are often booked where and there is a fancy dining area within this structure as well. The original building was built in 1929. Over the years it fell into decline, however in 2014 it was restored an a banquet hall was added. (i did some research on this place, but It doesn't sound like things were resolved from what I could find. There are some grass root groups that had opposed some of the proposed ideas for changes made to the building as well as some question about the sale of alcohol etc. ) At any rate, it was a stunning sight to see along this beach area. If you are incredibly interested I encourage you to research it. There was just to much mixed information for me to follow.
Looking out over the waves is the Chicago skyline.
Here is a good picture of how high some of the dunes can get.
We ended our day watching the sun begin to sink down over the shore. We didn't stay to watch it go all the way down as we had a bit of a walk back to the campground and it would be in the dark. Neither Kelly nor I was interested in finding our way back to the site in the dark and cold.
DAY 2: It is May the 4th. So I wore my Chewbacca
hat. : Iowa 80, Herbert Hoover, Amana Colonies
We had survived the first night sleeping in the car and we kept warm thanks to the electric blanket.
We had breakfast at a local Cracker barrel It was not very good. I was surprised because I love this place. Then we were ready for our next leg of adventures. We hopped on Rt 80 heading into Iowa and we soon were met with what claims to be The worlds Largest Truckstop.
Of course we had to stop and check it out.
yeah, this place is impressive. We walked around and enjoyed all of the fun things to buy and all of the many amenities for the truckers. In addition to stuff to buy there was an actual truck and a tractor inside this place. It was pretty impressive, but that mid west charm was nothin to the inflated mid-west prices. Woah!
Here are some fun facts about the place.
Ready to get back on the road, my goal was to get to another National Park 1 of the only two in the state of Iowa. When planning I did try to incorporate the 2nd one, but it was just to much additional driving that it was not worth it. This place was pretty much on route....Herbert Hoover National Historic Site.
Like Garfield, I didn't know very much about this 31st president of the United States before I came here. I only knew of him from his name being mentioned in an Annie song I used to sing when I was about the age of 8. So, who was Herbert Hoover? In the list of worst presidents he somehow ended up on the list, although I do not know why....so I had to investigate. Well, he was the president who the public blames for the Great Depression of course. I can only imagine that any president during the days of the depression would be boo'd. (I am so interested to see what history will say about our current commander in chief, but for now.....I will refrain from becoming political in this blog.)
Herbert Hoover was born in August 1874 in West Branch Iowa. He was the son of Quakers and he is the only US president to have been born in Iowa to this day. His parents died when he was young and he was raised by his Uncle in the state of Oregon. Hoover entered college at Stanford University in 1891 as part of the pioneer class. (He had failed all of his entrance exams except math). He fell in love with his future wife Lou Henry while in his senior year. They had two children and started their family living in London. While living in London, the British entered WWI. Hoover helped to establish a committee to return some 100,000 American Businessmen and their families back to the United States. This was the beginning of Hoovers place in the public as he established relief to at least 40,000 Americans. He later took on responsibility of aiding supplies and food to millions of war victims within The British, French, German, Dutch and Belgian Governments. Hoover was appointed by president Woodrow Wilson to head the US Food Administration and charged with ensuring the nations food during war. He was named the "Food Czar". Hoover would supply the allied powers while working to prevent a domestic price increase as well as a shortage. He was know for creating days to eat certain foods in an attempt to prevent rations. We have all heard the term Meatless Monday. His success as well as his friendship with Wilson, helped Hoover to remain in the publics eye and he was encouraged to run for President in the 1920s election. he instead backed Harding and began to take steps towards running in the future. Warren Harding was elected as president and Hoover was rewarded for his backing by being appointed as Secretary of the Interior. During his years within this department, Hoover continued to make a name for himself and was a well established politician. By the 1929 presidential election he was ready to run the country. During his presidency however the economy took continued hits. The stock market crash of Black Thursday in 1929 which led to the great depression. Hoover was beat for his second term as president by Franklin D Roosevelt.
The historical site is based primarily on Hoovers residence as a child. The grounds have the homes, market and blacksmith shop the president once knew growing up.
Pictures of the two room cottage that Hoover was born in.
The blacksmith shop where Hoover's father worked.
The school
The church
The Bronze statue of the Egyptian Goddess Isis was gifted to Hoover by Belgium for his work in aiding relief during WWI.
Although he was a president that has been considered one of the worst. It is truly amazing to read up on what accomplishments he made throughout his life. Here is this orphan kid, who went from a small town in Iowa to attending one of todays most prestigious Universities in the country. becoming a very rich businessman, to being awarded for his relief efforts (also nominated for many noble peace prizes), and becoming a United States president. It's far from what accomplishments todays man can claim. I just find it all so interesting. I love the national parks for providing me with the opportunity to learn about the lives of our history. So now we move on.
Iowa did not disappoint. yes there were miles and miles and miles of corn, but we ended up finding this adorable area called The Amana Colonies. The Amana colonies are one of Americas longest lived communal societies and are made up of 7 villages.
The area was once home to many German immigrants and was established in 1714 after they had fled Germany in search of religious freedom and economic growth.
Their belief is called Community of True Inspiration. The original members first purchased land in Buffalo NY but later moved westward in search of more farmland and space. The villages all within a few miles of one another included Amana, East Amana, West Amana, South Amana, High Amana, Middle Amana, and finally Homestead.
Today, the area is visited by many tourists for its restaurants, and many craft shops. The Community of true Inspiration continues to worship to this day.
Kelly and I stopped to enjoy the area, and I am not sure what Amana we were in or perhaps we were in Homestead, but we found a place to park and decided to explore.
I just loved these metal pieces.
We then walked around some more and checked into a few more shops, there was an art museum and a sculpture of American Gothic (although very different from the original.) BTW, was I the only one who didn't know that the painting was actually suppose to be the farmer and his daughter, not his wife. What? The artist of the original painting. (Grant Wood) painted it after a drive through in the town of Eldon Iowa.
I pulled up a picture of the original for reference. 
We went into this little shop where they were selling special teas. Now I'm not a big tea fan, but this drink was amazing and I had my very 1st boba.
having fun with the props.... the Maifest is this weekend coming up, unfortunately we will miss it.
We spent some time in this little tea shop deciding what and where we wanted to sleep that evening. We had made a decision to stay at this place called The Flamingo in Marshalltown, because we liked the name. Iowa had some of the cheapest hotel prices so we had decided that we would find a hotel in the area instead of car camping. We even considered staying at one of the local Inn's here in Amana, but we could not afford the price.....yikes. So it was decided, we would head to The Flamingo for the night, but first one dance under the maipole or is it Maypole? Before we head off from this charming location.
We got back on the road and headed to The Flamingo which was about an hour or so away. BUT...when we arrived at the Flamingo.....it was nothing like we had hoped or expected. It was a big disaster of a place and an absolute NO for us. We decided on a Baymont and had dinner at a place called Clancy's before calling the day a success.
DAY 3: Happy Cinco De Mayo. Casino, Falls Park, The Corn Palace
Today we will enter into the state of South Dakota. It was about 3 hours to our first planned stop in South Dakota in the city of Sioux Falls. We had a fill at the free hotel breakfast got some gas and began to head North. And I have to just say one thing, if you think Iowa along route 80 is empty of anything, well then you should check out North Iowa....nothin but corn, cows and fields. MOOOO!
It wasn't to long though that we saw a sign for a Casino. There hadn't been a sign for much else so we chased it. We may have chased it off the route a little bit, but it was worth every penny in gas and every minute of time we lost taking the road to this place. I absolutely loved it.
We signed up for the players card and we both got $15- in free play, 15% off all menu items and 1 free beer. I got a Bud light ended up $10- ahead and our total for both meals ended up at $3-. basically this little stop gained us $7-. Hot damn.
Our $3- lunch. of course Kelly had to get the healthier choice.
We shortly got back on the road and fairly soon we entered into SOUTH DAKOTA>>>
I don't know why I expected the cities in South Dakota to be small, because the first city we were heading for certainly was not. In fact Sioux Falls is the largest city in South Dakota. Everything seems so much smaller and easier to get to on a map, but we made our way through the streets of Sioux Falls to Falls Park. Oh and guess what we realized....there is a time change somewhere in all this, so it made up for any loss time we had diverting making today last so much longer then we expected. Falls Park was ready for us, and we hadn't missed a thing.
We headed to the visitors center where we were able to take the elevator up to get a good look at the park grounds.
It is very pretty. We then walked down to the falls, stopping to view some of the statues along the way.
I'm not sure what these statues are about, the signage was blurred.
(I just reviewed my Falls park guide and the first statue is called For which it Stands, it was nominated as peoples choice award in 2006. The second sculpture is called American Farmer named Peoples choice in 2004. )
The falls were very pretty, although I do not know why my pictures came out so discolored. I don't recall the actual color to be so yellow green, but maybe they were. The Sioux River has been flowing through this area for over 10,000 years and the rocks that surround it are called Sioux Quartzite, the second hardest rock next to diamonds. The density of the rocks make it a highly resistant and much needed resource for the area. In the early days of this city the Sioux Quartzite was used to construct most buildings and roadways.
Below is the Sioux Falls light and Power company, it is now a cafe. It once served as the power for the Queen Bee Mill, which only has some construction left of it after a fire that destroyed the wooden frames, the walls were later knocked down to prevent them from falling.
You can get a glimpse of what is left of the mill here. (below)
On to the next adventure. We were next headed to Mitchell South Dakota, just about an hour drive.
Ok...So there really is not much to see or do in Mitchell SD, but there is one very interesting place that I must admit I will never see any where else, its the Worlds Only CORN Palace. Yep, that's right a palace made of corn. Plus there was some kind of street party going on right in the city. We had planned on visiting the Corn Palace, taking in the party then sleeping in the area Walmart Parking lot. So we were off to enjoy some corn fun, some party fun, and then actually learn what it is like to sleep in a walmart parking lot. That was the plan. We arrived just before a Graduation that was being held in the Corn Palace so we got really lucky with finding a place to park. I was actually concerned that they wouldn't let us visit the corn, but they waved us on in and we began our corn adventure....
The corn palace was originally built to celebrate agricultural prosperity in 1892. It was a temporary structure decorated with native grasses and grains to serve as a gathering place where the towns people could celebrate festivals and a positive crop growing season. The town has continued a fall festival every year called the annual corn palace festival. In 1919 the third and final palace was built and the traditional festival continues today.
The Palace has been more then just a gathering place for the community to hold festivals, but
has also been home of basket ball games, dances, meetings, stage shows, proms and other types of events.
There was a section along one of the corridor with a picture of each year starting in 1948. Those were really neat to look at.
Below are some of the murals in the auditorium.
The palace is the where some 1/2 million intrigued visitors venture each year who come to take at look at the corn and other grains that plank both the interior and exterior of the building.
The Palace is decorated with a new theme each year starting in May. The theme this year was the circus. Under the Big Top. (Although it states 2022, it was early May when we visited, according to google, the 2023 and 2024 theme is Famous South Dakotans- Bob Barker was one I knew, but apparently there was a gap year. due to poor rain. )
They use natural colored corn to shape the designs and nailed to the walls. Below is me acting silly on the tractor.
We exited the corn palace and into the city streets where there was all kinds of activity going on. The City's first Fridays was happening and there were bands, food trucks, lots and lots of cars, and even more community.
We stepped into a little store for some keepsakes, where we happened upon one of the Corn Walls featured participants, (at least that was what he told us.) Meet Popcorn, the clown featured on the wall this year. Troy Magnuson. He even gave us a postcard to remember.
Back out in the streets, we walked along and hit several booths that had things like health insurance, political running mates, and games ect. I took any candy or freebees that they were offering and we spun any wheels they had to spin as well. It was nice We walked down the way a bit and found and found this cute little cupcake place. Crazy about Cupcakes. We enjoyed the sweets.
Back out in the party we walked around, viewed the cars, and contemplated if we really wanted to spend any extra money at the food trucks before deciding that we were ready to head off and find a nice place to sleep at the Walmart. Besides I needed Mexican.
Below, is a view of the palace from outside. You can get a small sight of Popcorn here the third panel down from the corner.
Below is a better shot of Popcorn.
We left downtown Mitchell and the Corn Palace feeling like it was a great little stop, but we still needed to find some Mexican and a place to sleep for the night.
We found our Mexican place, and it was so busy, the only place to sit was on the swing seats. That was an adventure. Once our food came, we were able to move to an actual table, but we did have some fun swinging before hand. I got a beer and had this amazing meal.
Dinner was awesome, but Walmart was not. By the time we were searching for a place to sleep, it had gotten late, I was grouchy and ready to call it a night. In haste I booked a hotel that was so bad we wouldn't even enter into the lobby. After fighting with Choice about CA the reservation I was finally given my $ back and we were sitting there, in the dark after 9pm unsure what we were going to do. By chance we found a campground. There was no one at the front, but there was a phone number and he let us stay for $20-. And there was electric plus showers. Bonus. Here we are snuggled in our make shift camper.
DAY 3: Dignity, Minutemen Missiles, Wall Drugs & Badlands
Mitchell SD, you have served us well... but on to the next adventure. The next morning I enjoyed a very nice shower before getting packed up for our next leg of the trip. On to Chamberlin SD just about an hour away. Oh and Its DERBY DAY so I had to represent.....
Just along I-90 was the Chamberlin Welcome center,(Also known as the Lewis and Clark Welcome Center) and if you are ever on this path, you absolutely must stop here. Here is the reason why.
She sands at 50 feet tall made of stainless steel, representative of the Indigenous woman in a plains style dress and star quilt draped over her shoulders. She honors the Lakota and Dakota people. Courage, Wisdom and perseverance.
I could have stared at her all day, but instead I ate some breakfast nearby. There is a nice pathway that you can take along the ridge, but we decided that having to be told to beware of poisonous snakes was enough of a deterrent to keep me right where I was. Plus we had places to go, things to see.
(BTW- Louis and Clark camped at the other side of this river as they made their way across the west.)
The Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. For anyone who happens to visit, there is an exit right of 90 that takes you here. Oh, BTW, did I report that the highways in South Dakota are 80 MPH......Can you get a hold of that craziness. I am loving this state.
So, anyways we are here. What is here, well besides being a National Park, this place is actually all about the COLD WAR.
It is estimated that the USSR could destroy the world over 63 times (the US 55) at the height of the war. There would have been no escape had either side decided to push the button. Actually there was one very close incident that took place in 1983. In the USSR an early warning indicated that there was one launch and four more right behind it. Thankfully engineer Stanislav Petrov believed this to be a false alarm. His delay prevented a full on strike against the US and an irreversible nuclear war.
At the end treaties were made to become transparent in our nuclear weapons, and most were disarmed as part of this treaty. Still many of the silos sit in these fields and far off places though out this country. We were able to visit one such place after leaving the visitor center.
This visit was a real experience for me. Unfortunately, in doing some research, some have claimed The United States is at the highest risk of a Nuclear Attack then we have been in over 30 years. Russia has abandoned many of the treaties as well as expanding new weapons, and we have new enemies. Other articles claim that the probability is likely 1%, while others state that we shall all end in such a war and that it is inevitable and will never stop being a threat until we all unite and stop playing "the game" and recognize humanity as a whole. (I just got a hint of a Heavenly John Lennon singing in my head.)
This was super cool to look at.
As the story goes, In 1931, Ted had used the $3,000 inheritance from his father to purchase the drug store in the middle of nowhere Wall, SD. Many, specifically Dorothy's father, thought it was a horrible idea, and at first it seemed Ted's father in law was right, However, Dorothy and Ted believed that God would bless them and decided to commit to the next 5 years. In an attempt to bring in business Dorothy sent our post cards, Ted promoted dances in hopes that the dates would end in a soda or ice cream at his store, they sold pop corn and lemonade at the ball games and rodeos. As their 5 year plan was coming to an end, they were not growing in business. In 1936, Dorothy had an idea as she was listening to the ramble of the cars along the dusty highway. She thought, these travelers have got to be mighty thirsty after driving along the hot prairie. What do we have that they might want? Well water of course, and lots of it. So Dorothy came up with a little jingle " Get a soda, Get a Beer, Turn next corner, just as near, to highway 16 & 14, Free Ice Water, Wall Drugs.
Today the cafe can seat 530 people and has a Western art gallery within the walls. It is one of the largest privately owned original Western art in the country. In the 1970's Bill came up with the idea of creating a mall and Frontier Town. This space included 14 stores, including the Drug Store, and a chapel.
The store, or shall I say complex is still owned by The Husted's. Third and Fourth Generations continue to be a big part in the stores success. There are nearly 60 full time employees and some 100 seasonal workers that keep the place running, Over 2 million people visit each year. Wall has become one of the most famous Drug Stores in the country because one family came up with an ingenious plan to offer some FREE ICE WATER as a means of advertisement, and it worked.
I have decided that I will not consider the possibility, and continue to live my life to the fullest. BUT, I will take very seriously these signs and any like it.
Ok, I am aware of being bewared. I sure do not want to run into one of these guys getting a little sun, as Kelly and I ventured into one of the National Park's "open to the public" (despite the signs) missile.
Anyway, after the history, it was time for some fun. We were headed to one of the biggest tourist traps in the West. Yep it's Wall Drugs. Not unlike the tourist trap, South of the Border and its many Signs along the route beckoning a stop, Wall too has it's encouraging signs ....FREE ICE WATER. Interesting enough, that calling was what first got people to take a stop at Wall Drugs back in the early 1930's.
The drugstore actually has quite a history. A very cleaver wife, Dorothy to the then Pharmacist and owner Ted Husted is what began the progress of the popularity of this Drug Store. The drug store was once a small structure in a small town that was feeling the squeeze of poverty during the great depression. Both Dorothy and Ted were worried they may not survive. It was Dorothy who had this idea to advertise for FREE ICE WATER, that turned everything around.
Soon Ted was plastering these words on signs along the highway, and just as soon as he was putting the signs up. There were people showing up at the store looking for their free ice water. Ted continued with the signage and even Dorothy thought he took it to far.
But, somehow it worked. That following summer, the little Wall Drug Store had to hire 8 girls to help keep up with the store and in 1942, the store was getting just a little to small. The expansion began. Ted son later bought the theater, and some of the other buildings around the area and they kept expanding.
Their son Bill had been the one to suggest that they built a cafeteria, but due to the big Cottonwood tree there was no room. Dorothy insisted that the tree not be cut down. So they simply built around it. A new sign went up on the road, " Eat Under the Tree". The tree died in the 1990's an had to be cut down, but the store continued to grow.
By the way, they still offer FREE ICE WATER, 5 Cent cups of Coffee, and they have the most delish homemade doughnuts. I can contest to the doughnuts too, they were yummy.
I must say, the place is impressive. There is so much stuff. Easily we could have spent several hours just looking at all the stuff. Actually I think we did. All I can really say is this place is more then a store, it's an experience.
I remember stopping here when I was a kid. So I knew I had to make a return trip. Kelly and I just had so much fun.
The T-Rex was fun. He would move his head and eyes back and forth then suddenly the sirens would bellow and he would start to growl....,,AGGAH!!! He's gonna get loose.
We had plans of camping here in The Bad Lands campground, but I had heard that it was a 1st come park, and I wanted to make sure we got our place. We did and actually there were several places around when we got there, this was not the case as the evening set in. We pretty much had our choice of locations to pick. The camp grounds do not offer much and they are super far from anything, but the wildlife. I do believe it was the Sage Creek Campground, but I could be wrong. I looked it up and there is a cost, but when we went it was free. Its a bare camp spot, although there are a few picnic tables, we choose a site that offered this, and a portable toilet. There is really very little spots to set up your tent that is not immediately next to the road or next to a Prairie Dog hole.
These little guys were everywhere. I was convinced that I would be awaken by one chewing it's way through the bottom of my tent as I slept.
Not only were their Prairie Dogs everywhere....but just off in the distance, yep, yep, yep! We would bs sleeping where the Buffalo ROAM. There were only a few that were close to the campground, but the idea that they were free ranging right by where I would be resting my head that night had me as giddy as could be.
I was sooooo excited. I never thought that I would be sleeping in a tent where animals like this could so easily just walk by as I snoozed. It was crazy.
After setting up the tent we did some exploring of the park.
More Prairie Dogs....They were all along the road, and the make such a weird sound.
They would stand up on their hind legs and skretch at another. Peep peep peep. They would all be talking at once.
And of course there were the views of these amazing canyons and rock formations.
Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!!
The badlands were originally a reservation for the Oglala Sioux Indians and reserved as a sacred site for ceremonies and in 1868 the second Treaty of Fort Laramie issued by the USA assured the Sioux that the Bad lands would be forever Sioux property. This treaty was broken in 1889 however and the US retook ownership. Money was offered, but refused by the Sioux.
For over 11,000 years the Native Americans used the Bad Lands for hunting. The Lakota people were the first to call it Mako Sica, which translates to bad land. The French Canadian called it les mauvaises terres pour traverser, or bad land to travel through.
During the 19th century, the US government stripped most of the Native Americans of their lands as homesteaders moved west. Basically, the US government took over most of the Native American's land, and pushed the people out of their homes. It's a very sad story.
I didn't get much of the history of this area, but as noted above, this was once land owned by the Natives and the US took it away.
It truly is amazing.
My mother has a picture of she and her brother in the wagon, (I'm guessing it had to be from the early 60's) she also has a picture of me and my friend Katrin on our trip in the early 80's in the wagon, I had to get my own picture in the wagon as well.
Who said these were just for kids?
Nope, were not going to try and get up on the Jackalope.
It was such an enjoyable time. I have seen this place listed on some of those articles of most wasted time or rated as a terrible tourist trap, and for some I guess they might think so, but for me, it was nice break from the road and as entertaining as any of the stops one might make on their way across S. Dakota to the next "big" thing. As a kid, I remembered this place (and the hotel pool) more then the amazing views of the Badlands, or the faces carved in the Mountain at Mt. Rushmore. For me, it was a MUST stop, and if your into that kind of stuff, then this is the place for you. Even if you only step in for the FREE ICE WATER (and do not forget the doughnuts) its worth the visit.
This was a great time, I did think for a moment, (Until I saw the price tag) that perhaps I needed a mounted Jackalope head for my wall.
Speaking of Jackalope, look at this one found along the road as we headed to the next stop for the day. The Jackalope, had been a creature, as a child I had been so intrigued with. My guess is that somehow my father had convinced me that these were real creatures that lived out there in the plains.
Up next was The Badlands, and although as a kid I thought Wall Drugs was my most fond memory of the area, as an adult, well nothing can compare.
So let me tell you a little about the night I had. It was not as restful as I would have thought. Kelly fell asleep early and that left me, wide awake in the wilderness....no cell service to watch my shows, or play my games, and I was pretty much left with just listening to the Peeps of the Prairie Dogs and the many voices of those who were now camping next to us. I did try to read some, but all I had were the books I had picked up from rest stops along the way, so nothing with any substance. I awoke Kelly to inform her I would be making my last trip to the potty and getting myself ready for bed as the sky began to darken. She slightly stirred and requested that I wake her when it was dark enough to see the stars. I did my thing, and got settled into the tent, I tried waking her several times and saw the stars for myself, although I did not venture out into that TOTAL DARKNESS. I was thankful that the Dogs, had at least ceased to chirp any longer. At one point I was convinced they would go on all night. Anyways, with no luck getting sleeping beauty to wake, I too decided it was time to fall out. I was successful for a bit, but something woke me, and all I heard was howls and screams off in the distance. I was freaked. For the life of me I could not figure out what that could be. I found myself laying there intensely listening, gaging how far away the sounds were. I thought for a while it was wolves. This terrified me. I could hear the howls. Wolves howl and they have been known to eat people. Hey, I read Little Read Riding Hood. There seemed to be several of them too. There was not just one howl, there were many. of course my imagination had whatever these things were creeping up to just outside my tent, red eyed, snarling and HUNGER on their minds. I could not fall back to sleep. I laid there, mind racing. Even if I did have the nerve to look outside the tent, it was complete black out there, one could easily sneak up on me and I'd be dead. I tried to fall asleep, but my mind simply would not let me. The howls went on forever. I finally fell asleep and Kelly wakes me to say she has to use the bathroom. Well...have fun with that, I'm not leaving this tent...NOPE...no way. I am that awful friend that will let you risk it alone or piss your pants. She ventured out of the tent, took one look at the blackness and was not leaving either. So we were both a mess. I did find out that the howls were from coyotes. Not that this makes me feel any safer, they are wild animals, and I guess they could have crept in with snarling lips ready to eat me. I have since experienced other howls at night and have been less threatened. Needless to say, I did not get much sleep that night.
DAY 4: Badlands & RAPID CITY
The following morning, we woke up and I was blessed by the gift of these animals near my tent, not any creatures that were snarling at me. (The rabbit sis not have any horns, I did look).
We saw more Bison as we drove along the roadway, as well as more of those amazing views.
I stopped often along the drive to take in more of the beauty. I can't begin to describe just how amazing these views were.
(Please bare with all my pictures of the hills, I actually edited out several of them, but they were so spectacular).
Every time I would go around a corner there would be even more enchanting views.
We found some long horns. I think that is what they were called.
We stopped at the Visitor Center. I got my stamp and some stickers. Fun Fun.
I took a little tail hike along this dusty and dirty trail.
I can' t read my sign, but I am pretty sure that there were once alligators here in the badlands. 58 million years ago, this area of the world was much like the Florida everglades.
As we headed out of the park, we both noticed that we hadn't seen any Bison on this side of the park. I feel like most of them were hiding out in the areas that are off the main drag. We left on the main road leaving the visitor center and where there were the most people. I felt a little like I had a secret. We knew were the Bison were.
As we exited we came upon a Store called the Ranch Store, and they have Prairie Dogs all over the place and they encourage feeding them. Of course we had to stop.
You can buy peanuts to feel them, so we got some and started to have some fun feeding.
Up next we headed to Rapid City. We had decided that we would stay in a hotel for a few days in this city and tour areas from the city. We found a great rate at this Americinn. Its a chain I had never heard of, but it had great rates, it was clean, the staff were wonderful and we had a pool, hot tub and there was a slide, which neither of us were brave enough to ever go down.
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| Herbert Hoover |
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| Franklin D. Roosevelt |
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| Chester A. Arthur I had to look it up and make sure there actually was a guy named Chester that was a President. Apparently he was our 21st president. He served as the VP under James Garfield and succeeded after Garfield's assassination. (I guess I should have known that after our visit at James' home.) |
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| Calvin Cooledge |
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| George H Bush |
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| James Monroe |
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| William Taft |
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| Andrew Jackson |
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| Franklin Pierce |
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| Abe Lincoln |
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| John Adams |
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| James Bucannan |
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| Teddy Roosevelt |
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| John F. Kennedy |
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| Martin Van Buren |
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| John Quincy Adams |
DAY 5: Devils Tower Wyoming, Deadwood SD
The next day we headed to Wyoming. We were going to Devils Tower. This is the place that my 8 year old head recalls and knows as the place where the Aliens were in that movie Close Encounter of the Third Kind. I had no idea as a kid that this place was even real. Aliens....yes, they are real. Anyway, we were heading to Devil's Tower and I was super excited.
The monument is so odd, just sticking up out in the landscape.
The movie Close Encounter of the Third Kind is perhaps the reason this monument is well known. In the movie, Richard Dreyfuss builds the monument 1st in mashed potatoes and later in many number of random objects in his family living room.
Unaware of what the calling was about those affected by the visiting aliens, were drawn to this location and as the movie continues, this is because the 1st encounter of communication with the aliens is made.
It is estimated that the structure was formed 50 millions of years ago. The entire structure is solid all the way through it. The cooling and contracting is the explanation of where the lines along the tower. As magma cooled it would crack forming hexagon columns. (The lines)
Throughout the area below the tower are trails. Strung among the trees are prayer bundles. Tiny bits of fabric hung as an offering to include a request, a remembrance, or offering. Kelly and I used some pieces of plastic to create our own bundle and made a prayer as well.
We hiked the tower trail which traverse along the bottom around the tower. Views of all sides are abundant. I really loved this place. It gave off an extreme sense of peace.
Today, the town has franchised on the old Western town, and the streets are full of all things old western town. The main roads even have some of the more famous members of Deadwood walking the streets ready to preform.
Perhaps the most famous member of Deadwood is Wild Bill Hickok. Birthed as James Butler Hickok, he was a frontier man with many job titles, he was a soldier in the civil war, a cattle rustler, scout, gunslinger, entertainer (He preformed with Buffalo Bill Cody) a lawman and gambler.
Kelly and I were able to meet with Wild Bill and got a picture. We later watched the show on the death of Wild Bill.
Kelly was picked to be one of the actors in the performance. She was the bar tender.
On August 1, 1876 Bill was playing poker at Nuttal & Mann's Saloon when drunk Jack McCall sat at the poker table and loss miserably. Bill offered to cover the looser's breakfast and had encouraged him to quit while he was ahead. McCall stumbled off angry with the breakfast funds.
The following day, Bill again was playing poker. He was not sitting in his preferred seat; against the wall facing everyone coming in. When McCall walked up to the back of Bill reportedly stated "Dam You! Take that!" and shot Bill in the back of the head at point blank range. Bill died instantly.
Bills card hand held Aces and Eights, often referred as the Dead Mans hand in poker.
Apparently there is a show on HBO called Deadwood. I haven't seen it. But I understand it is very good.
Other famous people noted from Deadwood is Calamity Jane. Martha Jane Canary was a sharp shooter, frontierswoman, and story teller. She met Hickok when working together with The Buffalo Bill Wild West show. She came to Deadwood and was employed by a local madam.
She claimed to have been in love with Bill Hickok, there are no documents indicating that the two had a relationship. She had requested to be buried next to him, and she currently is. Hickok was married and denied any relationship with Calamity Jane, and the joke will forever haunt him in the grave.
Kelly and I did some gambling as there are a few casino's along the main walk. No winner here.
We also took in a tour of the Franklin Hotel. Once hosting legends like Teddy Roosevelt, Babe Ruth and John Wayne, the Franklin hotel was opened on June 4 1903. It was considered quite grand and included 250 guest rooms all of which had electric lights and telephone service, 80 of the rooms having private bathrooms. (This was very unusual for the time).
In 1929 during the stock market crash, the Franklin hotel ended its reign. It became apartments until 1989 when Deadwood again legalized gambling. It wasn't until 2005 that a proposed project restoration began and in 2007 the hotel lobby and first floor was reopened designed from the photo's of the original.
Also identified as 'famous" was Potato Creek Johnny. John Perrett had been a Welsh Immigrant who had come to the Dakota's to pan for gold. His fame was in finding the largest gold nugget ever to come out of the Black hills. The gold weighed 7.43 troy ounces.
At our visit they were continuing to make restorations but as you can see many of the areas are completed. (I do wish I had gotten better pictures.) We were told of the Johnny story in his dedicated room.
We continued to walk along the main street, and it was clear that the locals have maximized these three "famous" Deadwood people for a profit. Below is whiskey named after the trio.
All three are buried in the Deadwood cemetery (Mount Moriah). although a visit had been on the agenda, we decided to find dinner and head back to our hotel and relax.
It would be our last hotel experience of the trip, and we were longing for some relaxation by the pool. The pool area had a slide as well, but we were both chicken. We went to bed early and were ready for the days ahead.
DAY 6: Custer State Park
This part of the trip was one I was very excited for. We would be camping in the park for three nights and I was thrilled.
We first stopped at the visitor center.
Bison once roamed this area by the thousands. It is estimated that in the 1500's there were 30-60 million bison living in North America.
by 1902 there were fewer then 100 wild buffalo left as people sought to kill them. In 1905 the society of American Bison was formed and today there is estimated to be nearly 30,000 wild and many more in captivity. (In this picture is a mountain of Bison horns. )
Its really sad actually. We learned of the many animals that live with in the park, including cougars. Big Horn sheep, deer, mountain goats, prairie dogs, Pronghorn, Birds, Coyotes Elk, Antelope and of course Bison.
We were to early to check in for camping, so we decided to take the Wildlife loop Road . Right away we saw some animals, I'm not 100% positive, but I think these are antelopes.
Oh, give me a home....where the deer and the antelope play.....
Just as soon as we thought we had seen all the Bison to see, we would come upon another herd. Endless Bison.
Oh...spotted one lone Prairie Dog on the ride.
The Bison just continued.... I got several video as well. A momma ran right in front of me with her baby undecided about crossing the road. She grunted and I assured her we would not harm her little one, he eventually made it across and followed her up the hill. We watched some of them play, chasing one another their hooves stirring up the dry soil as they ran.
Others rolled on their backs in the dirt also stirring puffs of dirty filled air into the wind.
The Buffalo Jams were happening, although this made us wait, it also offered up a moment to watch these fellows meander and play. We even got "licked" yep, one Bison came up to my jeep (not us pictured) and licked the side of my car. I got a video of him enjoying what I can only guess must be salt from those NY winter roads.
We exited the area of the many Bison, our eyes looking close for the most remembered characters of my youth trip to this park; The Begging Burrows. We had no luck finding them and continued on the road. We stopped for a little lunch in one of the local lodges. (I wish I got a picture), and fully fed we headed back out on the road entering a different landscape then we had been in earlier. Here we entered mountains, and beautiful landscapes full of trees and ditches and rocks, the areas looked far and beautiful.
We also saw some of our first Buttes or hoodoos. These geological formations that stick up into the sky out of nowhere. We had entered onto Needles Highway, and this areas was incredible.
We squeezed our car through several tunnels bore out of tocks just like these. They were tight, and a little scary, but we loved the adventure. (I have video of us going through)
We circled around and were soon heading back towards our campsite. There are a ton of hiking trails we could have taken off these main roads, but we pretty much just viewed from the car or got out and walked around the overlooks. We stopped at a camp store and purchased some refreshments as well as a book. Knowing we did not have cell service in the camp ground I had to get some form of entertainment. We found our site, set ourselves up and wandered the campground. We met the host who reported they had been hosting this park for years, we also met a women who is on one of my FB groups who is traveling alone in her travel trailer. (OK Jelly).
DAY 7: Mount Rushmore and Jewel Cave
We went along the road some more and it wasn't long that we spotted the star attraction animals....the Bison. They were EVERYWHERE. (Picture dump ahead, simply scroll along)
Just outside our campsite, we spotted a Bison and a little further down is a stream. We are fortunate to have the bathrooms right near us. I was in my heaven. The host came around and informed us that there was rain expected, but we just didn't care. We cozied into the tent and I read all about those bad boys of the Black Hills tell we fell asleep.
We were up, showered and ready to head to one of America's most recognized places Mount Rushmore.
We got a glimpse of those famous faces as we drove towards the landmark. We took Iron Mountain Road and it was impressive as well and we had to drive through some more tunnels. You can't see from my picture, but the tunnel walls frame the four famous rock heads wonderfully.
We had finally made it. The park is free, but there is a $10- parking fee, however it is good for a year so should I ever venture back....
At the very end.
The museum offered information about each president whose face is upon those rocks. Thomas Jefferson was chosen to represent EXPANSION. He was the president who signed the Louisiana Purchase as well as an author to the Declaration of Independence.
Tools were used to cut, shape and chisel out the defined character likeness and took 14 years to complete. Most of the cuts were made using dynamite and a technique called honeycombing, where holes were drilled closely together to remove small pieces by hand. Borglum had visions of completing the statues to the mid section of the four men, along with creation of a room behind the statues to house documents like the Constitution (there is no hidden room that I am aware of despite rumors of such) but funding stopped and he died before his vision was completed. In 1941, it was decided the project was complete. In 1998 a hall of records was built to house important historical documents such as the Bill of Rights, The Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution. I assume these documents are indeed there.
Pictured below is Gutzon Borglum.
The Sculptor has also been brought into debate. Apparently Borglum was an active member of the KKK and the association was a big funder of the construction of the project through the back door. He was fired from the association and before leaving he destroyed the models he had made.
Of course this has brought into debate about the rights of the natives and the honor of the artist himself.
But....I was unaware of the questions around the monument at the time and we continued to enjoy the place taking the trail around the base of the faces we were able to gain different views.
Im not sure how the views will or will not affect the monument as it is today, but I do hope that future generations will be able to enjoy this amazing piece of history. It is impressive regardless.
We took a trip into the store before we headed off to our next destination.
I do not know much about the monument except that on this year the memorial is marking its 75th year. We didn't stop, I just got some pictures as we passed by. I do know that they plan to make this the largest memorial and it will exceed Mount Rushmore in statue. I also know that it is completing without governmental funds which I am assuming is why it is not yet complete. I do hope that the bodies that are behind this project obtain their desired outcome and perhaps I will visit on another trip.
We had plans to see one of the two area cave systems and todays adventure took us to Jewel Cave.
Like many of the National Cave systems there are a number of tours you can join in on and this cave also offered tours to take. I had not reserved this cave before our trip as I had reserved us for the Wind Cave tour. We were unable to catch a tour at this cave as the slots were all taken. I do believe we could have waited to get on a later tour, but we decided against it. To be honest. I am not really a cave person anyways, but I understand that this cave is actually the prettier of the two. So for next time, I book Jewel Cave. Anyways.....
We did explore the visitor center and were able to watch a movie about the cave system. You can watch it too on the Park Website.
Jewel Cave is the 5th longest cave in the world. The 2nd largest in the United states.
Perhaps what makes Jewel cave so different from most cave systems is that the cave was not created by underground rivers, but by circulating ground water. Below is some of the formations within the cave.
But...we drove farther and guess what??? We found those burrows. Now they were not walking the streets and they were behind a fence, but we found them and I parked ready for some burrow love.
We spent some time enjoying these fellows and other people came by as well. Now...this is a disclaimer. I am not sure that we should be feeding any animals in these parks. I am quite aware that you should always keep your distance from any wild animals this includes the BISON, but it is also my understanding that these guys have been feeding within this park for years, and they are almost encouraged to be fed. The fact that they were not on the road may say other wise, but approach and feed at your own risk. I want to make claim that no one in the park provided us with permission to feed these guys but there are no signs stating NOT to feed either.
As it should happen, we headed towards the Native American's own sculpture that is being carved into a mountain. The Crazy Horse Memorial.
The caves have nine species of bats. This is pretty neat.
After our time at Jewel Cave, we headed back towards Custer State Park and our little campsite. I was interested in finding the beggin burrows and we were not going to leave the area before feeding them the apples I had purchased back in Ohio to feed them. So we headed back and into Custer
We re-entered the park and we soon saw more animals.
Ive seen these guys at home too, but hey wildlife is worth a picture.
The Burrows are not native to the area, the are actually desendants to the burrows who once provided visitors access by donkey to the top of Black Elk Peak. Once these rides were discontinued, the donkeys were set free in the area.
In looking into if you can feed these guys I got two different reports. 1 stated Feeding Wildlife is prohibited while another reported that Yes, you can feed them. So the choice is yours.
DAY 8: Wind Cave & Hot Springs SD
We got to see some more Bison as we headed back to camp.
The weather had been beautiful all day, but as the evening approached, we were looking at some very dark and disturbing skies. We had no rain and the evening air was beautiful, but far off in the skies we watched as lighting cast colors of blue and purple across the skies. I had never seen anything like it. It was beautiful and frightening at the same time. The thunder would roar following those flashes, the roar would echo across the lands and tear up any peace of mind for a rain free night. Kelly and I went back and fourth about sleeping in the tent, should we get in the car for the night? We finally decided to get in the car.
Today was our last full day in the black hills area. Tomorrow we head towards home, and there is nothing left on my agenda. It had rained all night long and our tent had begun to take on some water, glad we slept in the car. Rain was expected all day. Lucky for us most of our activity was inside or while we were getting wet anyways. We got ourselves going and headed directly to Wind Cave National Park, where this time we had a reserved tour.
Wind Cave was established as a National Park in 1903 by President Theodore Roosevelt. It was the 6th National Park in the system and the first cave.
The Black Hills Lakota Tribe who lived in the area called the cave the hole that blew air.
It was considered the place where the people first emerged from the underworld before the creation of the world. The first human to emerge from the underground. (Wind Cave).
As the stories are passed down the details may vary but this is what I found about the Emergence. The people believed that the cave was a passageway from the spirit. 
The bison will provide you with food, clothing shelter, and they will lead you to water. As they were leaving, the creator shrunk down the hole so they would always be reminded of the underworld, but that they were now to live on the earth. The Lakota people used every part of the bison that they killed.
Like most of the area, the Lakota people were granted this area through the Laramie Treaty, but as gold was found in the Black Hills, their lands were taken over and exploration into the area began. The first documented discovery of the came by the white mans was in 1881. Brothers Tom and Jesse Bingham heard wind rushing from a hole in the earth. When Tom looked into the hole, it is said the wind blew his hat right off his head. Exploration of the cave began in the cave and this went on for about 8 years before The South Dakota Mining Company hired Jesse McDonald to oversee the cave and the mining of the site. Since no valuable minerals were found The McDonald family began to excavate the cave for tourism. Jesse's sons Elmer and Alvin were hired by their father to explore the cave. It was Alvin at thee age of 16 who did most of the exploration and took detailed notes about his finding through out the cave. (Pictured below). Alvin would explore area that had never been seen, he would often use string to help guide him back out.
Our tour started at the original cave entrance, and where Alvin and Elmer would have taken people to tour the cave back in the late 1800's. We all stood around and waited for the wind to flow by.
The winds were not great today, but we did hear something blow. The wind is caused by the difference in the barometric pressure between the cave and the air outside. I'm not sure if it needed to be hotter to make the air come rushing out.
Next we entered into the cave.
What makes Wind Cave so special is the largest concentration of rare boxwood formations that are located throughout the cave.
These are certainly formations that I have never seen before.
It is also home to the extremely rare black footed ferret, one of the rarest known animal in North America. (We did not see any of these guys either.) Additionally the grounds are home to two types of the oldest trees, the Juniper and Sequoia some are estimated to be up to 3,000 years old.
We left the cave and headed towards Hot Springs. I noticed this big mammoth statue along the road. The Mammoth Site. I would have liked to stop here and take in some of this place, but admission was not in our budget, although as I look at the price right now, it wasn't that bad. ($14-) but we were trying to be as cheap as we could and we had already paid for our spa day appointments which was coming up shortly. Next time I suppose. I believe if memory serves me correctly, I went to this site when I was a kid. I bet it is cool.
We stopped at the National Grasslands NP office, there were no additional stamps, but I had to stop.
Up next we took a walk along one of the parks in Hot Springs. We walked up to a waterfall that had warm water flowing over it.
I thought this was pretty cool.
Up next we made our way to Moccasin Springs Natural Mineral Spa.
I don't remember but I think we had 3 hours of spa time for about $30- Im not positive, but it was worth every cent. The showers alone were worth the $30, and after multiple days in a tent and on the road a nice hot shower was amazing. I took one before I even got into my suit and another one after. Ahhh. The springs were also wonderful. I have never been to a natural springs before so I wasn't sure what to expect, but this was heavenly. There were 8 baths ranging of several different heat levels. (I dont know the actual degrees I just know that some were much hotter then others.)
When we first got there we had the place to ourselves. It did pick up later, but it never felt crowded. I of course had to go in every pool. Some were very earthy, as in there was slime on the bottom. Some were cool with natural rocks to sit upon. I enjoyed going through the walls that lead to larger pool areas, although I would not put my feet on the ground. No slime for me.
We maxed out of 3 hours and even enjoyed as the rain fell from above. We ended our stay with another hot shower before heading off to our homebase back at Custer.
We saw some characters on our way back to our campsite.
DAY 9: We drove all day long. Up early and off we went. We made it all the way to Minnesota for a late lunch/dinner. This was super good.
By 1892 the cave was opened for visitors. For $1- about ($30+) today a visitor could tour the caves by candle. These tours were nothing like the one I was taking today, they were physically challenging crawls through small tunnels and steep drops.
Our guide told us many interesting facts (I'm Sure) as we took the tour, but I cannot remember any of them, but here are some facts that trusty google had for me. Wind Cave has 90% of the worlds boxwork. They also have a formation that is called frostwork and are only found in a few caves around the world.
Wind cave has over 162 explored passages through out its system. This makes it the longest and most complex cave system in the world.
Wind Cave is home to the largest number of Bison herds of all the National Park systems, although we saw none while we were there, but we really only took in the cave tour and did not explore the grounds, which is the largest mixed-prairie eco system containing over 30 thousand acres and underground prairie dog towns.
Kelly and I enjoying the cave.
Back at camp, it rain and rained and rained. I had attempted to make a campfire, but that was a wash. Our little tent was not holding up and still wet from the night prior. We hunkered down in the van eating left over deli sandwiches and listening to Mr Ballen on youtube, before finally falling asleep.
and then we visited the Jolly Green Giant and Sprout before getting back on the road.
It does have some great rv's both old and new and we did have fun looking at the changes RVs have made over the years, but it was pretty expensive for what you got. Maybe I was just getting tired of the whole trip and this made this experience less then wonderful.
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